why these two high jewellery innovators are a match made in heaven
For the high jewellery brand de Grisogono, it aaa replica designer handbags has been quite a year. First, a reshuffle 1:1 replica handbags at the top, with the announcement that Cline Assimon would join as CEO. Ex Louis Vuitton, ex Piaget, she was more than a perfect fit. but wait, a woman? In her early 40s? In the conservative, male dominated world of high jewellery, this was rare.
Then the news that the founder, Fawaz Gruosi, had decided to step down, his twinkly eyed replica louis vuitton handbags presence previously as integral to the brand as the black diamonds and statement, sassy jewels that he had championed replica louis vuitton since launching the house in 1993.
Assimon has not sat on her laurels far from it. In May a third press release arrived, announcing her opening gambit, de Grisogono’s ‘Creativity in Residence’, a trio of initiatives starting with a one year residency with a named guest designer who replica louis vuitton bags , to quote the release, ‘will propose his/her interpretation of the maison’s codes’.
And now the news that this first guest designer is Emmanuel Tarpin, the young creative force who, at 25, launched his eponymous jewellery maison to such acclaim that Christie’s included his first creation a pair of geranium inspired earrings in its Magnificent Jewels sale in December 2017 (they sold for 20,000).
In fact, mention of Tarpin’s name among jewellery cognoscenti elicits a knowing nod replica louis vuitton bags he is undoubtedly one of the most talented independent jewellers out there, with his use of coloured aluminium, a painterly hand with gemstones, and a lightness of touch so deft that his jewels are delicate yet voluminous, and entirely contemporary.
Assimon had been storing up her residency idea for a while. “It was in my suitcase when I arrived,”she jokes, when all three of us meet in her Paris office, “and cheap replica handbags de Grisogono was the perfect brand in which to plant this seed. After all, we were born out of pure creativity.
“Back in 1993, high jewellery was a very conservative world, owned by a few very traditional, very French maisons. We came up with black diamonds, replica louis vuitton bags from china mixing hardstones like turquoise into our pieces, and combining gems considered less noble like amethyst with emeralds. Today, creativity is more about how you work, collaborate and create, and that process of inclusion, brainstorming and nurturing tension in the design journey.”
It was back in November 2018 that Assimon first reached out to Tarpin, via his Instagram account. “I messaged him and asked him to lunch!”she says, laughing and looking slightly embarrassed.
“We talked a lot,”chimes in Tarpin, “about de Grisogono’s style, my style, our ideas of the high jewellery world, our clients and women today it was more of a discussion, but slowly, step by step, we approached the idea of a collaboration.”
It’s at this point that I broach what seems glaringly obvious: de Grisogono’s aesthetic is a million miles away from Tarpin’s.
The former makes big, bold, joyful pieces that sit comfortably against tanned skin, a playgirl lifestyle and a Mediterranean backdrop. With 17 different jewellery collections and 13 boutiques globally, it’s not mass market, but it is commercially productive in other words, it’s not inconceivable to be hanging out at a beach club in Sardinia and spot someone else wearing the best selling Allegra collection.
Tarpin, in contrast, is an ‘art jeweller’. His workshops in Paris only produce 17 20 one off pieces per year: exquisitely detailed exotic blooms that hang from the ear; or graphic swirls of metal, like a pair of matt black aluminium shell earrings edged with graduated diamonds, Designer Louis Vuitton Replica Handbags as worn by Rihanna.
Tarpin is quick to clarify: “We have lots of things in common, like volume I like to play with different dynamic shapes. Then the idea of contrast, of materials and stones that de Grisogono is always exploring. Also, the idea of closeness to the craftsmen, which is very important to both of us.
“I’m a designer/maker and I like to follow every step of production too,”he continues. “And the notion of colour, which I’m very sensitive to, as is de Grisogono. We may have different styles, but we have a lot in common, and it’s finding the coherent mix of both that’s so interesting.”
From Assimon, the brief was simple: to take the de Grisogono codes and reinvent them with Tarpin’s touch. “We’ve agreed on 40 designs and three chapters,”she says. The first, ‘Prologue’ https://www.dolabuy.su/ , will launch in London in early 2020, and from Tarpin’s sketches the marriage between the two houses is obvious.
Based on a ribbon that winds and unwinds around the ear, neck, wrist and fingers, there is a poetic playfulness that resonates with his touch. Some pieces will be made in aluminium (Tarpin again), and all will be pavd in black and white diamonds, an immediately recognisable signature of de Grisogono.
Assimon points to a pair of hoop earrings, the circle made from two intertwined metal ribbons that seem to be unravelling. “Look how he’s brought his poetry to the brand, with the cord that seems to be coming undone.”
Tarpin agrees. “I wanted them very classic cheap replica handbags , but also with a freedom and sensuality that sets them apart, with the pav setting visible all around.”Another pair sees a spiral of metal that drops from the earlobes front and back; a ring coils up and down high quality replica handbags china the finger; while a statement necklace is tightly wound towards the back of the neck but falls sensually in looser folds down the dcolletage.
While all pieces in the Prologue collection are rendered in black and white diamonds, the next collection, to be released later in 2020, will introduce colour in more icy shades Perfect Quality Louis Vuitton Replica in homage to the de Grisogono boutiques in Gstaad and St Moritz while the third and final collection will channel the Mediterranean, cheap louis vuitton bags from china referencing the brand’s heritage and connection to Sardinia, the island so loved by Gruosi.
I finish by asking Assimon why the maison has chosen to name Tarpin. There are, after all, lots of freelance jewellers who work behind the scenes at big established houses.
“There are many very talented designers out there who don’t get credit. We are strong enough to let them in, collaborate with them, name them, and then let them go,”she says. “There’s a limit in time to our partnership with Emmanuel contractually, of course, but,”she concludes tantalisingly, “that doesn’t mean the relationship will end.”.